Uncategorized – Page 3 – Cheeseburgers In Asia

The Kids

The kids continue to inspire and delight. There’s nothing quite like a day in bed with stomach problems, then a weak but able sunset temple visit to make me reflect on the love and gratitude for a great family, and creative, silly, tender-hearted and curious kids.

We’ve been trying to connect with NGO’ and their affiliated “social enterprises.” Services or shops that support the development and growth of disadvantaged Cambodian youth or those blinded, deafened or disfigured by land mines (that still exist off the beaten path). The first night in Cambodia, we went to a Friends restaurant where all of the staff are former street kids training for restaurant work or to improve English and move on to higher education. There is one teacher server and many student servers. They also had a retrash shop filled with upcycled art, bags made from rice sacks, wallets out of rubber tires and beads made from wrapped paper. The kids loved the whole concept and it really set the stage for looking for opportunities to support good causes while we eat, shop, and recreate. On this particular night, Porter ordered grilled frog legs. He was so brave, it looked like…well…frog legs up to the waist. It was basically a Frog and Toad massacre disguised as 5-star cuisine but he powered through. I tried to play it cool but could not watch him eat it. John got a delicious steak salad sprinkled with red tree ants!!

The next morning after watching sunrise at Angkor Wat (kids willingly got up at 4:15am), we came upon a monk doing blessings. The kids were eager to engage. The monk was playful and kind. It is amazing how quickly kids take to all of the cultural protocols. No hang ups about using language, taking shoes off, bowing with hands in prayer, kneeling in front of a monk. When Porter bowed in prayer pose, he had his shoes in his hands. The monk giggled and said “bless the shoes, bless the shoes.”

Porter found one of my trip highlights at the Angkor Thom temple. He said, “hey guys, there’s something where you take your shoes off and it looks cool.” We all followed and discovered at the heart of the temple, a small dark chamber filled with Buddha statue, offerings, candles and incense. We took off our hats, packs and shoes, entered and kneeled together. Even though the temple complex was filled with other tourists, we had almost 5 minutes alone in this sacred space. We each lit incense and sat in contemplative silence. I was so moved and filled with love. We tiptoed out, bowing our respects.

In perfect kid form, 10 minutes later, I said how special that was for me and Porter asked, “what experience? What room? When? What candles? Ohhh yeah” I am going to just assume that the experience was so wonderful that it bypassed short term memory and went straight to deep cellular memory and a lasting impression.

Yesterday, we found another social enterprise, silk screen t-shirt making. The kids will write more details about the experience, but mia and porter were so excited to participate and adamant that we had to do this particular activity because it was a “social enterprise”. It was a group effort but the kids were in the lead with design ideas. They both know exactly what they want and they are great at compromising and blending ideas.

Unfortunately, I did not get to join them for the actual screen process since I was laid up in bed all day with crummy tummy. The bathrooms are well designed for this occurrence. Most bathrooms are one multipurpose room, toilet, sink and shower. So, if you fear expelling from both ends (which I did fear), no worries, because you can just hose down and shower up. Fortunately, it never came to that, my system decided to take turns.

The kids of course were loving and tender when they returned with stories of print making, so proud of the family shirts they created.

We ended our time in Siem Reap at Pre Rup temple for sunset, wearing our team shirts. The kids got really into using the good camera and learning settings. Then a beautiful tuk tuk ride home with the rising orange full moon.

Kuala Lumpur – friends and food

We spent a week with friends from our overseas teaching days, the Mangelsdorfs – Max, Lisa, Lucas, Ethan and Ana. They were sort of our inspiration for this trip. Two years ago they took a year-long sabbatical from their work and school at International School of Kuala Lumpur to travel around the US. We are doing the same, but in the opposite direction. We loved re-connecting with their family and with the food of Malaysia! So many different cultures and cuisines.

Family first

When the Mangelsdorf five visited us two years ago in Bellingham, and Mia and Ana discovered they had many similar interests including reading, animals, people and couch time! So as soon as we arrived, the girls disappeared into Ana’s room to catch up on the latest good reads. Every time I tried to take Ana and Mia’s photo, Ana dove below my camera, so Mia/Ana photos are sparse, but here is one I caught.

After dinner that first night (home-cooked burritos, mmmm!), Ana and Mia discovered they both play flute in the band with the same style. They are both “fake flutists.” Apparently its a way for non-band kids to be in band. I can’t say I am a fan of the method, but we all cracked up when we discovered another shared interest.

The next morning, Mia and Ana went with Lisa to fetch the Mangelsdorf dogs, who were being dogsat by friends. There, the girls shared an equal squeeley love for animals. A few days later they went to play with rescue dogs and puppies at the SPCA together, and now every day Mia is figuring out a way for us to end our trip in KL so she can adopt “Cinnamon.” As if we would need a second dog to get Josie excited at the mailman!

Food

The similarities finally started to break down when eating began. Our first adventure was “nasi candor,” Indian breads and naan dipped in delicious spicy sauce for breakfast. Ana and the rest of the kids feasted, while Mia left out the “e” from feast, finally nibbling some plain naan under duress.

The next night we were joined by more overseas friends, Rita and Lyle. We ubered downtown for some open air, street Chinese food. The weather was a little bit hot and rainy, and traffic snarled up within a couple blocks of the restaurant. So we all hopped out of the cars to walk the rest. At that exact moment, the rain increased to a proper northwest drencher. We zig-zagged from street umbrella to awning to food stall, but basically got soaked.

Upon arrival at the restaurant, the staff quickly set up overlapping umbrellas and extension cords for lights to buffer us against the growing torrent. It was as if the air had lifted the entire Indian Ocean and was dumped it directly onto Kuala Lumpur from one of those giant water park buckets. Then, the cracks of lightning and thunder started – great ambiance, really.

We ordered something called “chicken fish.” None of the wait staff really spoke English, so we still don’t know what it is. But it was delicious! We also tried calamari, stingray, greens, beers and staying dry. Everything was prepared to perfection, (except the staying dry part).

At this point, we re-visit Mia and Ana. They were sitting together, but having very different experiences. Mia was hungry, so she ate some fried calamari. Amy didn’t tell her that it was squid until later. Very funny reaction, “you made me eat a squid??!! But mom, you told me…” Mia couldn’t stomach the fish. She was nearly in tears at her lack of options, until sweet and sour chicken came to the rescue, and she chowed. Ana ate it all, that girl likes it spicy!

Moltzans, Mangelsdorfs and Chesbroughs unite (plus some other friends of Lyle and Rita)

The kids pre sweet and sour chicken – check out Mia’s plate and look!

John and Lisa about to eat Chicken Fish

For dessert, we spied a cart selling “fried durian,” allegedly an Asian delicacy. To me, it is disgusting and smells of gym locker socks. Perfect for a food challenge. Max offered any kid 5 Ringgit (about $1) to eat the full piece of stinky fruit. Porter, Lucas, Ethan, and their friend Ruby all rose to the challenge. When we pushed Mia, she deflected our cajoling, “do you REMEMBER the last time I ate something for money? It did NOT go well.” She was referring to a holiday when uncle Adam convinced her to eat a huge black olive for $5. She tried, gagged and nearly puked. This time she was wiser, though she did take a nibble for the experience.

Our last two dinners were incredible – amazing Indian food, followed by a Fourth-of-July taste explosion: Chinese dumplings at Din Tai Fung. The highlight were little dumplings filled with shrimp and pork filling, called “Xiao long bao.” Eating them was a delightful kinesthetic and gastronomic experience. There were steps to the eating:

Make the dipping sauce. Choose-your-own-amounts of soy sauce, rice vinegar, chili, and pickled ginger, as spicy as desired.
Scoop a bit of sauce into your spoon.
Plop a steaming hot dumpling into the sauce in spoon.
Pierce the dumpling a couple times with a chopstick, and press down gently to allow the piping hot juices from the pork/shrimp mix to form a slurry of, my god, can you smell it yet?
Wait to cool a bit.
Suck that dollop of goodness into your mouth. Though I’ve said this before about other foods, it was one of the greatest taste sensations I’ve experienced. I think the restaurant is a global chain actually, and just opened a location in Seattle. Yum! Even Mia liked the dumplings, without sauce of course.

If you are counting, you might notice that Mia has now tried squid, Chinese dumplings, and last night she put a bit of Cambodian curry on her rice. She may not appear the adventuresome type as far as food goes, but she is doing it. Amy and I are very proud of her stepping out of her comfort zone on this trip.

We ended our Malaysia visit to a local children’s hospital. The hospital is specifically for kids with leukemia or other blood related cancers. Max and Lisa regularly bring their students and kids to the hospital to play with kids and give them a different experience. The hospital is very popular with families, as the beds and rooms are big enough for several people to stay, and the care is very good. In every room, on nearly every bed, collections of parents, siblings and grandparents gathered around their child in treatment. People slept, laughed, ate, and played games, anything to make a foreign, scary place seem loving and nurturing.

We had bought some coloring books and balloons, and just sat down to draw with kids, or played balloon catch. I was really impressed by Lucas and Ana’s comfort with kids and families. It took me a little longer to get comfortable, but once I joined with Ana and Mia at a 5-year old girl’s bed, she and mom just crawled their way into my heart. Mom was very open about her 5-year old’s illness, they found out she had leukemia only one month ago. Now they were in KL for several months of chemo treatments. The girl loved princesses, and seemed to enjoy coloring with Mia/Ana. Porter settled into a game of balloon catch with another ten-year-old, while Max walked about adding little bits of fun to many kids . It was a lovely ribbon to a marvelous gift of a week. Thanks for the great hospitality Mangelsdorfs!

Here is a gallery of a few more photos:

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Asian medical care, air travel and the kindness of strangers

Last week we left Lombok, Indonesia (and a great travel adventure with the Grays) to head to Kuala Lampur, Malaysia. It was a three-hour international flight on “Air Asia.” Guess how much the flight was? About $100 per ticket! The flight itself was fine, but we were worried about Porter.

Porter in his “uniform,” with an earache (actually in Malaysia here)

The day before we flew out Porter developed a painful earache, and the local doctor was not in. So, we did some quick “internet-doctor-diagnosis,” and figured it was swimmer’s ear. We read that Porter maybe should not fly – extreme pain and the possibility of a burst eardrum were both mentioned by http://www.youwithoutanymedicaltrainingcandecidewhatyourkidhasandifitisserious.com. We decided to go for it, because $100 tickets are a bargain, but probably not transferable.

We arrived at the airport, and asked if they had a chemist where we could buy some eardrops. We were swept to a table with two ladies in headscarves (Lombok is a muslim country). The two ladies eagerly plopped Porter onto a table and had a look at his ear. They conferred in a mix of Indonesian and giggles. They showed us a medication, antibiotic eardrops, and a quick Google search confirmed they were appropriate for swimmer’s ear. They wouldn’t accept any money and had packets of snacks for everyone in the family to munch on while we waited. They were lovely, and we felt well cared for.

Ten minutes later we were off through the labyrinth of security, check-in, re-security, and immigration. Air Asia has a very clever business plan: sell a very cheap ticket, but charge for everything else. Even water. When you reach the gate, they have you pass through a third security check point (no liquids allowed) to wait to board the plane. The last waiting room has no food or water, so basically you develop a thirst for on-board products.

The flight was uneventful. As we descended towards Kuala Lampur, I was worried about Porter’s ear. We read that chewing gum and swallowing would help. So, I approached a flight attendant to ask for a cup of water.

“Could I have some water for my son with ear infection who needs to swallow during landing?” I asked.

“Yes, but you need to pay.” he replied.

“How much?” I queried, slightly annoyed.

“One dollar.” I offered him a $20 bill. “No change.”

I offered him a 50,000 Rupiah bill (about $4). “Only US money.”

I just stood there and repeated my original request. He relented, and I got a cup of water. Luckily, the magic of those eardrops, chewing gum and a video game all contributed to a painfree landing.

A few days later, Amy took Porter to our friends’ Malaysian doctor – Dr. Perkosh. Amy reported “nicest doctor visit ever.” He was seated in the waiting room, ready to greet his patients. He looked at Porter’s ear, prescribed meds, looked at Amy’s ear and a skin thing on Mia. Amy said that he was playful, patient, engaged and never looked at a computer once. He also allowed them to have a “multiple symptom”, multiple person visit. Appointment total with meds about $20.

I always feel fortunate when we are in need, and and run into the kindness of strangers. I am left to wonder, do I treat strangers so well? I think I am considerate, but do I take the time to really encounter, and make a brief but meaningful relationship with them? Things to ponder on the road…

Goodbye Wander

Wander has had a very fun time in Indonesia. He really loved Christmas, where he got to hang out with all the other cool toys people got. New Years however, was a little too loud for his big sensitive ears. Now, as I said, Wander really liked it in Indonesia, but he missed Rudy, poor guy. So, we sent him home with the Gray family, full of memories to share.

Lucky and Wander at x-mas

Lucky and Wander w/ other x-mas presents

Poe surfer

This is me surfing down a wave in Lombok, because I’m a pro surfer, at least on a 1 foot wave with a long board.

The day started in Lombok, Indonesia. When I woke up I was all tired and I did not want to go to the beach. But unfortunately I lost, we had to go to the beach.

dsc_0094-1 — The waves were so good, I could surf on a boogie board!

Once we got there, we instantly rented boogie boards. We got our swim shirts on and jumped into the waves. The waves were so good that I could even stand on the boogie board just like surfing! Now I’m a winner (going back to when I didn’t want to go to the beach).

My dad wanted me to take surf lesson with him, but I didn’t want to because I don’t like surfing very much. And why I don’t like surfing that much is because the last time I went surfing the waves were definitely not 1 foot waves. If you fell off, then you would get stuck under the board and you would die.

But finally my dad persuaded me to go, so my dad and our friend Maya and I put our surfboards down on the sand and one of our guides taught us how to paddle then jump on our board from the paddle position.

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After that we walked down the beach a ways, then got in the water and our guides got us to some easy shallow 1 foot waves and then it happened. I was a pro-surfer on the 1 foot wave circuit.

Here are a few of our photos from the day…

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Poe is out.

Bali and Lombok

Traveling with 3 scientists I’m not allowed to get away with bad science: “sample size too small,” “speculation,” “why don’t you ask instead of wondering or guessing?” All fair bits of feedback, but I live more comfortably in vague generalizations and anecdotal evidence. So, I’m going to say it: The Balinese are the warmest, friendliest and most heart centered people I’ve ever met. (sample size approximately 15 or so, more with fleeting encounters).

I know this belief is commonly reported about the Balinese people, but I don’t think you can conceptualize it until you are here. There is a depth of warmth and kindness that feels rare and special. Even the touts trying to sell you things. In the end, there is a smile and graciousness that says we are now connected.

With the handful of Balinese that I spent more time with, I felt at ease. I noticed that it was strangely easy to gaze into people’s eyes and faces. Similar to staring at your own child’s face, you start to see them in a different way, deeply, without barriers, no inside and outside, it is just purely them. I found myself a few times looking so intently into someone’s face, getting lost in the eyes, the skin, the smile. Then realizing that I don’t need to catch myself. Maybe this is normal. Maybe this is truly how to see and be seen.

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Religion must play a part. Most Balinese prepare and place offerings multiple times per day. Colorful woven baskets filled with flowers, rice and incense. dsc_0049-1 These offerings are everywhere, placed on the ground to ward off the demons, at eye level to bless people and up high to give thanks to god. It seems that people are always in preparation for daily offerings or regular temple ceremonies and celebrations.

I have been trying to use the word beautiful (cantik) to expand my interactions with people. I’ve used it often with kids, but it really came in handy at the art market. I was starting the friendly ritual of haggling over a sun dress. The woman implied that it was good for my slim figure, “you slim, me so fat.”

I replied, “no, you cantik” It was all giggles, smiles and familiarity from there (and maybe a good price on the dress??).

Since I wrote this first bit about Bali, we have now been to Lombok as well. Lombok is the predominantly Muslim island east of Bali, also filled with lovely and generous people. On both islands, it is all in the smile. No matter the initial look on someone’s face as they check us out scootering by (which I LOVE by the way), a smile or wave from us elicits the biggest most heartwarming smile in return. The kind of smile you only get from a long lost friend or when you visit Grandma and Grandpa. I think my smile is growing, I’m strengthening the smile happiness muscles. It’s contagious and wonderful.

The kids have also experienced a bit of celebrity on Lombok in particular. Many requests for photos, mostly with Indonesian tourists. Mia and Maya were asked to pose with a lovely 17 year old girl (who was shorter than Mia!!!!!) and then she asked them to kiss her on the cheek for another photo.

I’m off subject now and this post is probably too long, but one more reflection about Lombok since we are now leaving Indonesia. Several times each day, one can hear the call to prayer. It is somber and reflective, beautiful at times. I have found that it inspires a welcome moment of self-reflection. John however responded with feeling like an ass, sitting poolside, looking down at his hairy Bintang belly, knowing that others are using this time for thoughtful prayer. It’s all how you spin it. I quite enjoyed the call to prayer as the soundtrack to my nearly naked and very public Indonesian massage under the palapa at our quest house.

Well, the scientists shut me down again last night, as I futilely tried to argue some point about categories of manners. Apparently I needed some sort of historical evidence for my point to be valid. They weren’t buying my intuitive sense on the matter. Off to Malaysia. Stay tuned for more baseless opinions, over generalizations and mildly interesting anecdotes.

Christmas

Sorry that this is a little late, I kind of forgot about it.

Merry Christmas!!! Our Christmas is a day ahead of yours (Bellingham’s), so I had to wait one less day than you. If I had emoji’s right now I would do squinty eyes with the tongue sticking out. Since we can’t really get a bunch of presents, or do all our Christmas traditions in Indonesia, we did a small gift exchange. We drew names from a hat, went to a market, were given 30,000 Rupias (the money in Indonesia) for each person, and secretly bought a present for them. The four kids did a second drawing though, so each kid bought two presents, and got two presents. I drew Darrell (Maya and Willow’s dad) for the big drawing, and Willow for the kids drawing. The market was really cool. I loved haggling for the price of the gifts. I got a bobbly head turtle and a mini wooden turtle calendar for Willow. I got a mini wooden fish calendar for Darrell. On Christmas Porter and I got candy and stuff in our stockings (socks) from Santa, then we went to the Grays house. -we were staying in separate houses across the street from each other- at their house we wrapped our presents and then exchanged them. I got a really pretty bracelet from my dad, and five wooden owls from Willow. I am sad to miss Christmas with my cousins Lane and Avery, but it was really cool to have it here in Bali.

Traveling with Friends

This is mia and maya. We want to share how fun it is to travel with friends, in Bali, Indonesia. 🇮🇩

The traveling graybroughs on a beach in lombok

Here is a video trailer that I, maya, willow and Porter created by i-movie.

We were making fun of all of the stairs in Bali, the first place that we traveled to together. The first beach house we went to, you had to climb down millions and millions of stairs. Also, all of the temples were at the top of a mountain, so that meant even more stairs! The Chesbroughs arrived during a downpour. While the Gray’s arrived at 2:00 in the morning in pitch black darkness. Every time we wanted to go to town we had to climb all the way back up the stairs. It’s really fun traveling with friends because…
It opens up new possibilities for fun
-Willow
There is someone your age to share the fun with. -Mia

You get to share all the cool experiences with other people
-Maya
Instead of only playing with your annoying sister you get to play with other friends.

– Porter

Well there you have it parents, you should always let your kids travel with friends! Now, I would just like to note that when I typed in the word “annoying”, the suggested words that came up were family, friends, and people.😂

Written by Mia and Maya (Comments by mia and porter)

Seasons greetings!

Happy holidays from Indonesia –

This post is in lieu of the normal holiday letter sent by I. Since we cannot be with mom/Grandma Helen on this holiday, this post is also our Christmas gift to her. It is kind of a “re-gift”, since it is almost the same gift she gave us kids a few years ago.

The original gift was called An Open Letter to my Children on Proper Pronoun Usage. It was a two-page typed letter given to myself, my brother and sister. On the front was a detailed lecture about proper pronoun usage. My sister, brother and me all laughed as we read aloud the various “rules.” On the back of the letter were copy-and-pasted examples from each kids’ writing that exhibited their incorrect use of pronouns.

This blog post is a holiday letter, and a sort of “Where’s Waldo” of grammar. As mom reads this, probably aloud to Mike, he and her are going to cringe and gasp as they stumble across incorrect pronouns and terrible grammar. That is funny to Amy and I! But it really won’t be that funny to mom, because this post is published to the entire world, and so reflects on she as a parent. Growing up, grammar was one of the few rules in our house that earned admonishment when broken.

In the comments, please state your favorite poor use of grammar in this post, and feel free to stand on your own little soapbox. If I’ve done my writing correctly, I think you will find many examples to choose from. Me and mom will compare our counts of poor grammar as well.

On to the letter:

fam-on-bingin-dec19 Me, Amy, Mia & Porter are on an extended adventure – four months traveling through Southeast Asia! I am still in shock, and feel incredibly fortunate to have a family willing and excited to make such a trip happen. Amy and me wanted to mix up our family patterns, explore new cultures, and adventure together. So far, so good!

We are currently traveling with another family from Bellingham: the Gray/LaCroix family (Darrell, Renee, Maya and Willow). The kids are having a blast together; they put up with 1000-stair climbs, temple contemplations, and sweaty air. When given the chance to play in salt or fresh water, each only need a bit of encouragement to don their suits, like “Go,” or “Water,” or “It’s time to get dressed for going on another temple walk.”

Chesbroughs, Grays a McKenney and a LaCroix atop Ulu Watu

All the McChezennies also had some individual goals for this trip:

Amy

Amy wants to explore the culture, deepen her awareness, and practice body healing through massage, meditation and yoga. Some of these pursuits is easier than others. Over the last week, she has had a delicious massage, and went to yoga twice on the beach. But today she has a head cold, yesterday she had a migraine, and sleep? If you know Amy, you may have guessed the answer to that question – the Indonesian word for “no” – na. You can put the traveler in a new country, but you can’t make new country in the traveler.

John

I want to connect with people and culture outside of my own tribe, explore new natural areas, and go on adventures. Mornings tend to be adventure time – a hike or run down some unknown road, often ending in some Indiana Jones like decaying structure. Two days ago, I ran down about a hundred stone steps into a close walled ravine. The volcanic rock was thick and sturdy, covered by a soft body hair of mosses and ferns, sort of like my chest that Porter keeps asking me about – “Dad, do you like having chest hair?” “Don’t you think you should shave it?”

Another: A few afternoons ago we scrambled up several hundred stone steps to a hilltop temple of black brick. The only residents was a monkey family. On the way home, we encountered a festival happening in a small village. The priest invited us in, and told us about the ceremony. He spoke decent English, and told us that we were either: in the middle of a ceremony that occurs only once every 100 years, or in the middle of a ceremony that we should donate 100,000 Rupiah to (about $8). Irregardless of which was correct, I made the donation.

Darrell and John at at a temple for a once-per-century ceremony

Darrell getting blessing after making a donation to the temple

Mia

Mia wants to be open to new experiences and connects with people from different cultures. She enjoys, especially the shopping and haggling. Two days ago, we all stopped at an art market to buy Christmas gifts for our exchange. Mia haggled a 100,000 Rupiah salt-and-pepper shaker down to 30,000. (My best? 65,000 to 40,000). She is loving the travel with her close friends Maya and Willow, and she is doing a pretty good job eating food. At least if you consider chicken to be a protein, carbohydrate, fat, dairy, vitamin and a mineral.

Porter

Porter wants to wear silky pants and no shoes, see new sights, eat new weird foods, and ride motor scooters. Basically, he wants to adventure. For every page Mia reads, he wants to take a barefeet step. He knows what he wants. Last night for dinner, he insisted on eating “Fish croquette balls.” I thought he was crazy. But, he ordered them and proclaimed their delicious. At haggling, Porter’s is also better than my efforts – his best is 70,000 down to 40,000. Also, he was psyched to motorbike for the first time. Yay!

dsc_0038-1 — Poe gets in the pool before breakfast, after breakfast, before activity, after activity, before dinner and after dinner. Yay swimming!

Porter also got to try scooter biking on Christmas, which was a little terrifying for him and I:

Youtube video of Porter scooter biking in Lombok

Don’t forget to add a comment about your favorite bit of Bad Grammar for our Good Grandma!

Thanks for reading, and here is hoping youall have a wonderful holiday and new year!

Love,

John, Amy, Mia and Poe

Balinese fire dance – Ulu Watu

The Temple of Ulu Watu

Besides incredible natural beauty, Bali devotes many expanses of time and space to worship. A few days ago, we walked through one, called Ulu Watu on the Southern tip of the island. It is a very spiritual place for the Balinese people (mostly Hindu). The temple itself is a great expanse of structures, walkways and altars all set atop a breath-taking cliff overlooking the Indian Ocean.

Everything was built right to the edge of great 1000 foot cliffs that dropped into pounding surf. And though the architecture was grand, there was also a distinct lean to the guardrails as erosion slowly sloughs the edges into the waves below. Every structure was coated in moss, lichen and green grinding away at the carvings. The temple seemed to me a reminder that humans are wonderfully capable, but our lives will not last forever. Here is a quick selection of Ulu Watu images.

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Komang (shown in several pictures) was our guide, friend, assistant, translator, maker of all things to happen, and driver. He is a kind man, father of two, Hindu, and married to a muslim woman Ida (who was the kind-hearted caretaker of the home we stayed in on Bingin Beach).

A Balinese fire dance

After touring the temple, we decided to watch the evening’s entertainment – a dance performance depicting four of the many scenes of the Eastern mythological tale, “the Ramayana.” It will be impossible for me to describe the dance, but I’ll give you a little feel, and some photos. Also, I edited a bunch of semi-decent/junky cell phone video down to about a 4 1/2 minute video of the performance. I’ll post the Youtube URL at the bottom of this post.

Quick description of the dance: The music of the dance was an unaccompanied “choir” of 70 men, all bare-chested in matching sarongs. Several characters in mask or heavy make-up and elaborate costumes entered the stage to show the hero (Rama) lose his beautiful wife (Sita) to a demon king (Ramanha). The monkey-god Hanuman finally helps Rama get Sita back. Some photos:

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How did our kids do watching an hour long dance with only Indonesian language and song?

Everything about this should have gone wrong. The dance started at 6 pm, we hadn’t yet eaten dinner, it was a dance performance, and was not in English. All parents out there know that I just stated about 4 sure-fire precursors of a ragged kid reaction.

However, after reading a difficult-to-decipher English translation of the story, I gave the kids a brief summary. They were really into it, kept asking what point of the story we were in, and which character was which. At the end of the show, they ran up to different characters wanting pictures, and knew who was who.

Back in the car, the kids chattered about the show, and asked more questions about what was happening. Amy’s jaw kind of went “slack” since she hadn’t read the show notes, basically didn’t understand any of the story line, and just took it in “like poetry.” Pretty much the same thing that happens when we pause to look at a historical sign. I suggest that she might learn more by reading rather than relying on diffusion…

There was also some good comic relief as about halfway through the performance, a real monkey jumped onto the banister at the back of the amphitheater. The monkey started trying to snag people’s snacks, sunglasses, purses, whatever. As the monkey ran around the perimeter, the audience burst into a chaotic stadium wave, collapsing inward away from the pesky primate. The performers continued singing and dancing, but their eyes and smiles let us know that this was unplanned. Finally guards chased the critter out right before the monkey-god, Hanuman appeared. Good dramatic choreography!

Our kids did great. They enjoyed the art, the story and the experience of being in a large spectating crowd with people from all around the world. When the narrator called out, “Who’s from ______?” China, Australia and Indonesia were the top bills. Americans in Bali are the minority tourist.

Here is a link to the YouTube video of the dance:

Balinese Fire Dance

Cheeseburgers out.