This is me surfing down a wave in Lombok, because I’m a pro surfer, at least on a 1 foot wave with a long board.
The day started in Lombok, Indonesia. When I woke up I was all tired and I did not want to go to the beach. But unfortunately I lost, we had to go to the beach.
Once we got there, we instantly rented boogie boards. We got our swim shirts on and jumped into the waves. The waves were so good that I could even stand on the boogie board just like surfing! Now I’m a winner (going back to when I didn’t want to go to the beach).
My dad wanted me to take surf lesson with him, but I didn’t want to because I don’t like surfing very much. And why I don’t like surfing that much is because the last time I went surfing the waves were definitely not 1 foot waves. If you fell off, then you would get stuck under the board and you would die.
But finally my dad persuaded me to go, so my dad and our friend Maya and I put our surfboards down on the sand and one of our guides taught us how to paddle then jump on our board from the paddle position.
After that we walked down the beach a ways, then got in the water and our guides got us to some easy shallow 1 foot waves and then it happened. I was a pro-surfer on the 1 foot wave circuit.
Here are a few of our photos from the day…
Poe is out.